Dyeing of textiles
Practical Action
The knowledge required for sourcing and extracting such dyes and mordants is, however,
often not available as extensive research work is required to identify suitable plants, minerals,
etc. In Zambia for example, there is a wealth of plants available for producing
natural dyes, but due to lack of knowledge of the processes involved in harvesting and
processing the plants, little use is made of this natural resource. In some countries, such as
India, Nigeria and Liberia, where this research has been carried out, or where there exists a
tradition of natural dyeing, natural dyes and mordants are used widely.
Types of textiles suitable for dying
Natural dyes can be used on most types of material or fibre but the level of success in terms
of fastness and clarity of colour varies considerably. Users of natural dyes, however, tend to
also use natural fibres, and so we will look in more detail at this group. Natural fibres come
mainly from two distinct origins, animal origin or vegetable origin. Fibres from an animal
origin include wool, silk, mohair and alpaca, as well as some others which are less well
known. All animal fibres are based on proteins. Natural dyes have a strong affinity to fibres of
animal origin, especially wool, silk and mohair and the results with these fibres are usually
good. Fibres of plant origin include cotton, flax or linen, ramie, jute, hemp and many others.
Plant fibres have cellulose as their basic ingredient. Natural dyeing of certain plant based
textiles can be less successful than their animal equivalent. Different mordanting techniques
are called for with each category. When a blend of fibre of both animal and plant origin is
being dyed, then a recipe should be chosen which will accentuate the fibre which is required
to be dominant.
Equipment needed for home dyeing and very small-scale commercial dyeing
Most equipment needed for dyeing fabrics at home, or at the very small-scale commercial
level, can be found in almost any market place throughout the world. The following is a list of
the equipment requirements and a brief explanation of their use.
Heat source. This can be any type of cooking stove; gas, wood, kerosene, charcoal,
electricity. This is used for heating the liquid used during mordanting and dyeing.
Pestle and mortar. Used for milling the natural dye or minerals, where this is called for.
Mordanting and dyeing pans. Stainless steel or enamel pans are the most suitable for
dyeing. The size of pan depends upon the quantities of fabric that will be dyed. Do not
use pans made from copper, aluminium or iron, unless absolutely necessary, as these
metals have properties which can change the colour of the dye.
tirring rods. Stainless steel or glass rods are best as they can be cleaned and used for
different colour dyes. If wooden stirring rods are used then there should be a different
spoon for each colour.
Thermometer. This is used to measure the temperature of the liquid during mordanting
and dyeing. A long thermometer (to reach the liquid at the bottom of the pan) is
preferred, with a range of 0 – 100oC (32 – 210oF).
Measuring jugs. These are used to measure the quantities of liquid called for in the
recipe. Sometimes precise quantities are called for.
Storage containers. Used for storing the dyestuffs and mordants. Large glass and plastic
jars are ideal. Some mordants and dyes are sensitive to light and should therefore be
stored in sealed light-proof containers.
Plastic bowls and buckets. A variety of plastic bowls or buckets of varying sizes are useful
when wetting or rinsing fabrics.
Strainer. Used for straining the liquid off the dyestuff in the dyebath.
Weighing scales. Used for obtaining the correct quantities as specified in the recipe. A
scale with metric and imperial measurement is useful as conversions from one system to
the other are not then needed.
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